Insider's Guide To Sayulita

Ay Sayulita! 

This slice of Mexican paradise is filled with beautiful beaches, relaxed surfer vibe, and boho chic sensibility. This is where Mexico-meets-Malibu.

My earliest memory this beachy town dates back to the mid-90's. This was long before it was the "happening destination" and more so of a super sleepy surf town that only those in the know knew about. And, as the years have changed this place, it is still simply the perfect place to be.

It had been many moons since I sat in your golden sand, eating tacos de pescado, surrounded by the resplendent beauty of this pueblo magico.

The Mexican government just designated Sayulita one of its Pueblos Magicos, a pretty polarizing award igniting ire in some locals dreading the bus loads of day trippers from Punta Mita and Puerto Vallarta and glee in others that see ample opportunities for economic growth. But, to me, Sayulita will always have a special place in my heart.

Ready to live the little things in Sayulita? Let’s dive in!

Sayulita
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photo credit:   Paletas La Reinita

photo credit: Paletas La Reinita

EAT WELL

 Naty’s Cocina, I dream of this place when I’m back in the States. You know you’re going local when you wake up and can eat a taco for breakfast, and the best place for this craving is Naty’s Cocina (only open until 2pm). My favorite is the chicken mole. Wow, my mouth is watering right now.

El Jakal is perfect for an authentic Sayulita lunchtime experience. Staples like the coconut shrimp and ceviche tostado are a must, but be sure to ask about today’s catch. You may get to try rare surprises, like a stingray ceviche!

Estrella de Mar Mariscos is a family run restaurant that opened on the Northside of town that I’ve added to my list after trying their octopus ceviche. All outdoors, the menu is simple, fresh, and delicious. The perfect beach fare. Another is Su Casa where you can easily find yourself hanging out here nightly enjoying the fresh cocktails, live band and good-looking staff. And when I tried the freshly smoked ribs, it was a game changer.

A small homestyle Mexican-restaurant, Sayulita Café infuses fine-dining but in a very Sayulita way. This is the kind of restaurant where they never forget a face and they’ll “make” a table in a packed house for a friend just returning into town for the winter.

Cafe’s

Because I love a good cup of coffee, Coffee on the Corner is a great place to stop for morning coffee. They even offer bulletproof coffee and other keto-friendly food options. Yah-Yah is another coffee shop worth checking out. It’s a coffee shop and cafe offering 100% Mexican coffee and delicious food with vegan and gluten-free options.

The beautiful retro style wall mural of Paletas La Reinita will catch your eye but the delicious ice pops and granitas in exotic pairings and cocktails are what will keep you coming back. Try the piña con chile or the rum, coconut and mango; and if you want a really authentic Mexican experience, try a raicilla granita!

Bars

Located in the center of town, right on the square, Bar Don Pato’s is perfectly positioned to be your go-to bar in Sayulita every night after dinner, with a live band playing 6 nights a week and an open mic night on Tuesdays. If a low-key glass of wine is more your scene try Le Zouave de Hafa, a wine bar opened in the last year from the same owners of the Petite Hotel Hafa and right downstairs! In line with Hafa, this intimate wine bar has gorgeous Moroccan decor and true to the Mignot family is a favorite of the expats and surfers of Sayu. To be honest, during my recent time in Sayulita, the bars in town were packed! For a more casual option, I’ve been really into beach fires over a bottle of Clase Azul Reposado or chilling out while living to live reggae at Su Casa.

Fresh, Clean Eats

While the town’s small size makes it hard for too many restauranteurs to venture into the market, a lot of spots now cater to various dietary needs. Sayulita’s boho-wellness vibe is seen around town with their amazing selection of places to eat… clean! This family-run restaurant Yeikame serves mostly Mexican dishes and also pays homage to the local indigenous culture through the murals featuring Huichol elements on its brightly colored walls. While not strictly vegetarian, the restaurant serves quite a few meat-free dishes, like the blue corn quesadillas and the huevos rancheros.

One of the few places in town that commit 100% to only serving vegan and vegetarian cuisine, Veggie Land is open all day for all three meals and is influenced by traditional Mexican cooking methods. The owners source fresh produce from local farmers, allowing for a farm-to-table experience that appeals to any type of eater. While this taco restaurant does serve a lot of meat-based dishes, El Itacate’s meatless section on the menu takes up quite a bit of space and is truly delicious. Some of the vegetarian tacos on offer include garlic mushrooms, poblano chile strips with cheese and carrot “tinga” – a dish normally made from shredded chicken in a chipotle and tomato sauce. Atico Breakfast Cafe & Bar is a vibrant café that serves vegetarian and vegan breakfasts. Besides delicious dishes like wholemeal pancakes made from scratch and perfectly poached eggs, the highlight of this place is its quirky atmosphere with swing seats! Orangy is a juice bar exclusively serves vegetarian and vegan options, ranging from what they call “liquid breakfasts” (juice blends with yogurt) and amazing smoothies to more solid menu items like breakfast bowls with fruit and healthy toppings including chia, flax or granola. It’s the ideal healthy start to the day.

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LIVE WELL

Petit Hotel Hafa ≫ The first place I stayed in Sayulita, I always visit the Hafa team when I’m in town. Founded by Christophe & Marina Mignot, this 6-room boutique hotel is the epitome of the boho-chic traveler’s dream, blending Mexican art and a Moroccan aesthetic in a gorgeous oasis right in the heart of town and just a few minutes walk from the beach.

Villa Amor ≫ A few years ago I would have said Villa Amor was a bit of a hike away, but with town ever growing, Villa Amor’s proximity to the town center seems to be growing as well! This stunning mini-resort rises out of the surrounding jungle hillsides of Sayulita overlooking the ocean with beautiful traditional Mexican palapas style architecture. Close enough but far away, this is the perfect retreat overlooking the water for a little R&R.

Airbnb ≫ Villa rentals were always a booming business in Sayulita, but with Airbnb a lot of property owners have really upped their game! I’m lucky enough to stay with friends while I’m there, but if this is your first time in Sayulita, why not stay with my friends, or at least in their Air BnBs and get a first hand insider’s experience? If Sayulita and MTV Cribs had a modern Morrocan lovechild, it would be my friend Taylor’s four bedroom beach front villa complete with a private bar, chef on request and amazing views of the surf break. Travelling a little lower key? Try my friend Isis’s jungle hideaway a little removed from town’s main drag with mango, banana, jackfruit, passion fruit trees on the property, amazing ocean views and access to a rooftop terrace that I spent many a night star gazing.

Shop

For such a small town, there is no shortage of boutiques in Sayulita with many functioning as galleries as well, displaying beautiful made in Mexico crafts and artisanal goods. My apartment in Portland could practically be filled and look like a gallery itself with pieces displayed from some of my favorites. it’s not though.

This concept store, gallery, bohemian lair is a destination itself. Pachamama has been featured in international mags like Elle alongside owners, Les Gazelles, the Mignot sisters. The Mignot family is tantamount to Sayulita royalty and with family spread through the Caribbean, Europe, and North Africa, they have become world-renowned as synonymous with gypsey life and style. I have yet to spend a vacation in Sayulita without buying something from Pachamama, from bags, dresses to Pachamama’s well known take on the colorful embroidered Mexican wedding dress, even if you don’t buy anyting, it’s a great place to visit and check out..

Set up like a Mexican bazaar, Gypsy Galeria  is one of those shops where you’ll want to leave with everything. do NOT enter this store unless you’re fully prepped with an extra suitcase. From hand-painted Mexican tiles to revamp your kitchen or bathroom to paintings, crosses, and ceramics, this is one of my favorite places in town to shop for souvenirs for friends and family back home in San Francisco or Portland.

You know that cool friend, the one that has the immaculately decorated loft in earthy soothing tones, which each piece telling a travel story? Chances are, she has a piece from Evoke. With pop ups in NYC (where owner Brittney Borjeson hails from) and a new beachside outpost, Spirit, this zen shop should definitely be on your shopping trail when hitting the town. For sale you’ll find beautiful locally made clothing, textiles and jewelry, many of which are made by the Huichol tribe. What sets Evoke’s textiles apart from what you might see being sold in the town square are simply the soft, beautiful colors.

Located in the center of town, the amazing jolly rancher-colored chandelier was what first drew me into Ula Boutique. The only thing brighter than the neon pompoms (another Huichol artisanal trademark) is the smile of owner Paola.

BE WELL

Enjoy the Beach. Sayulita is known as the boho surf town that has grown from a few surf shacks to a blossoming and vibrant boho town. Take a surf lesson, boogie board, go Standup Paddel boarding (SUP) or just lay out and people watch. Sayulita life revolves around the waves so embrace beachtime! There are some smaller, less crowded beaches in the area like Playa Escondida and Play Pedro that are my favorites to take in the sunset and spend a great day with friends. Make friends with a local and find out about some others! There is also Playa de los Muertos is one of Sayulita's most appealing treasures. Tucked away in a little nook of a cove just a few minutes away from the main, downtown beach, many of the swells that roll into the main beach, bringing thrills to wave-riders of all sorts, are blocked by Punta Sayulita.

Jungle Hikes! The terrain surrounding this beach town is breathtaking; there are points where it the jungle seems to cascade down into the beach. There are a variety of levels from the short hike from Villa Amor, which you can actually do with your sandals, to the steep hike up Nanzal Hill that gives you panoramic views of the town of Sayulita, the bay, Punta Sayulita and Monkey Mountain. Monkey Mountain is the most difficult hike in the immediate area surrounding Sayulita, averaging about 4 hours of rugged terrain. The mountain is considered sacred to the Huichol Indians and the trail winds through dense forests, ripe with wildlife from ocelots and jaguars to macaws and jays and beautiful flora and forest canopy. The view is spectacular: a 360-degree view from Bahia de Banderas to San Blas.

 After a successful first year, the Sayulita Festival was back for January 2016. An International Film, Tequila, Surf & Music Festival, Festival Sayulita has already generated some buzz in Latin America. If you’ve never heard of Cumbia at El Camaron , Sayulita is the perfect place to listen to this percussion-heavy Latin American music genre. And there is no better place to dance all night to cumbia beats than beach bar El Camaron, a local favorite.

 

Published 2013; Updated, August 2019

Cover photo credit: Villa Amor

Insiders Guide To Ubud

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Insiders Guide to Ubud

Bali Travel Guide

Nothing inspires holistic wellbeing and healing more than a small peaceful island in Southeast Asia like Bali, with all its natural and cultural features. The island's wellness retreats have it all: beautiful nature, centuries-old tradition, and ancient wisdom to hoist travelers' physical and mental health.

Bali is a place where I'd dreamt of visiting for many years. I'd close my eyes and envision a tropical paradise, a place to "find" yourself filled with rejuvenating, sun-drenched days.

So why did I pick Bali now?

The question is, what took me this long to get there?

It had been a destination that I had always wanted to visit, yet never got to it. When I was given the opportunity to go through a Portland yoga studio's retreat, Namaste On Williams, I felt like I needed to just go...

Go where I felt most alive.

As clique as it might seem to visit Bali, practice yoga and especially "finding yourself," this was a part of Bali I had always envisioned.

It was just about everything. From a soul-centering, blissful week in Ubud, to daily yoga, to the most postcard-picture-perfect beach of the Virgin Beach and jaw-dropping views of the rice terraces, Bali did not disappoint.

So this city guide -- and really more of a visual diary -- is really 84a all about Ubud guide… for healthy food lovers and wellness travel seekers.

Are you ready? Let's dive in!

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EAT

Ubud is a perfect destination for anyone with a dietary restriction, especially for vegetarians. The Balinese weather supports the growth of delicious veggies and juicy tropical fruits. Most restaurants have vegetarian options and try to locally source organic products, some of them even have their own permaculture garden. The results are mouthwatering vegetarian dishes: you'll be spoiled for choice.

While most of my meals centered around the fantastic menu at Soulshine Hotel, there were plenty of places that are worth checking out.

Whatever you do, visit Clear Cafe! Recommended by Melissa Suzuno, a writer and content market whom I met on this trip, had recommended the dessert -- specifically, the raw food includes a chocolate cream pie. It was amazing! But, Clear Café offers locally sourced ingredient dishes that mostly vegetarian and plenty of dairy- and gluten-free dishes. Raw food includes a chocolate cream pie that's riveting. Drinks are equally sensational; nut mylk (from local cashews) is made in-house and substitutes dairy in beverages such as the chocolate matrix, mixed with mint, gingko, and spirulina.

For more healthy eats, smoothies, and gluten-free soups, Atman Kafe also offers organic coffee, cold brew, and kombucha. I've heard the grilled tuna steak salad, and butternut squash salad are pretty darn amazing! The Garden Kafe (at The Yoga Barn) for gf pandan crepes! For a 100% raw vegan cafe and juice bar with a mini organic health food store tucked inside of Alchemy Bali.

Soma Cafe, Sari Organik, and Earth Cafe for plenty of gluten-free dishes. There are also Bali Buda, Seeds of Life, Seniman Coffee Studio, and Dayu's Warung that were highly recommended. For nice Dinners Bridges Bali, Locavore and Mozai.

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SLEEP

Soulshine Bali is the work of musician, filmmaker, and humanitarian Michael Franti. This boutique hotel and yoga retreat oasis is in the heart of Ubud, and the setting of the week-long retreat is a great place to unwind.

Another of the websites that I use the most to book accommodation is Airbnb. If you like to stay in cool places that aren't just vacation rentals, but unique boutique hotels, you won't be disappointed.  It is a closer and personal way to stay.

For the luxe experience or even just a spa day experience, there are, Four Seasons (FS) Sayan, Kamandalu, Padma Resort Ubud and Hanging Gardens of Bali -- think infinity pools, pouring water down the jungle and a perfect place for refreshing both body and soul.

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DO

Ubud's various palaces and temples attest to the neighborhood's significance and dynamics as a destination. Ubud Royal Palace or Puri Saren Agung is easily one of the neighborhood's most highlighted landmarks. With ornate carvings and a magnificent structure, it reverberates a genuinely regal feel but with a calming ambiance amid lush, manicured gardens. Among the must-visit temples in Ubud are the stone-carved Goa Gajah, Tirta Empul Water Temple, and Pura Taman Saraswati with the beautiful lotus ponds.

Nothing says Bali like the sweeping, scenic stretch of Rice Terraces, that has become one of the most iconic sights in Bali. Clear blue sky, tall palm trees, and lush tropical greeneries surrounding different levels of rice fields are surely a breathtaking sight to behold, but Ubud's rice terraces are more than just a postcard-worthy view.

It’s a manifestation of an ancient Balinese Hindu philosophy organized by a local social unit called subak. Tourists can also explore the villages nearby to hear fascinating local stories and observe the customs and lifestyles of people who built and now maintain the beautiful rice terraces.

Ubud Monkey Forest is more than just a natural attraction within a lush forest with hundreds of monkey's roaming around. The 12.5-hectare (30.8-acre) land does offer a serene atmosphere, from the towering trees to traditional stone-carved statues. Built as a manifestation of an ancient traditional philosophy called Tri Hita Karana, the 'three causes of wellbeing,' that include the harmony with God, with other people, and with nature; so it also houses temples and social halls to observe.

Cycling will not only set a more relaxed pace to immerse in the sublime nature atmosphere, but it'll also be an enjoyable exercise to help burn some of that holiday weight from overeating satay or Balinese grilled pork with beer. You can rent a bicycle and figure your own route through the rice fields and villages or sign up for an organized cycling tour in Ubud. Now, my experience cycling was far from a “peaceful ride” due to a miscommunication. But, if Mountain Biking is your thing, that is that as well!

One way to embrace Ubud's tranquil surroundings and the quirky vibe is to get on the yoga mat and hit some poses. The fresh air, warm sunshine, chirping of birds, and shady trees will definitely create a remarkable and unforgettable Zen experience. There are numerous reputable yoga studios in Ubud, many of which offer an all-around wellness rejuvenation, such as Yoga Barn and Radiantly Alive. But if you're feeling adventurous, head to Ambar Ashram and try their intriguing laughter yoga.

For a full on Indonesian experience, a cultural dinner is worth checking out. Dances happen every night of the week, and most performances offer a dinner. Balinese Dance Galore (pictured above), Uluwata Temple, and Devdan Show at Nusa Dua Theater are worth checking out.

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